Colorful Metallic Beads

I listed these beads on Etsy tonight, and they've sold now, but I have to show them to you!

One of my customers, Jill, asked me recently to make some beads with Elektra glass for her. I hadn't used Elektra in about two years. I had 3 rods collecting dust on my glass shelf because I could never get anything I really liked out of it. I tried making some simple Elektra spacers for Jill in a seafoam green color, but just couldn't do it! It wasn't working for me at all in the way that it does for some glass artists. I had to tell her that unfortunately I couldn't complete her order.
Here are the greenest spacers I could make with my Elektra, but they're really kind of blue, not the seafoam color I wanted:

In one of our last emails Jill suggested that Elektra and Aurae might look nice together, so I gave it a try. The textured colorful beads at the top are the result. I'm so amazed by them - the color is incredible I think! They are made with an Elektra base and surface texture of Aurae.
I'm headed right back to the torch to make more!

It was actually Jill who bought these beads from my shop tonight, I didn't even email her to tell her I was listing them or anything. And she had no idea that they were made using her suggestion. Thank you Jill!
One more pic of the beads:

Click on the photos to see a larger view.
:-)

T-218 Accent Beads

A favorite Double Helix odd lot glass of mine is T-218. I'm not sure which production glass Double Helix considers it an odd lot of, or whether it's called a "test batch," but I think of it as an odd lot of Terranova. It strikes in a very similar way, only it strikes faster. It takes only short cycles of heating and cooling to bring the amazing colors out of this glass.

I've made a simple set of accent beads from T-218, and they're available in my Etsy shop:
Here's a previous post I've written about T-218:
http://beadabundant.blogspot.com/2008/10/odd-lot-t-218s-and-triton.html
The post features some beads I made with T-218 and Triton, pictured below. For some reason I didn't get the bright colors out of the T-218 in this set, but I like its earthy tones anyway:Now I'm thinking that the reason they don't have the bright colors is because my striking skills weren't as good back then. I've found that with striking glass in general, whether it's Terranova, Luna or Terra, etc., the bead has to get VERY COOL before it goes back in the flame for striking. I let it get very cool during each cooling cycle, and for the heating cycle I twirl the bead far out in the flame (8 inches from the torch face) so the surface heats up slowly and I can keep a close eye on the progress.

Keep having fun and have a nice weekend :)

CiM Chalcedony and Triton

Thanks to a comment from sassyglassdesigns on one of my previous posts, I've experimented with more glass colors to see how they react with Triton. Here I've tried a blue CiM glass called "Chalcedony" and I got a sea green color!Triton scrolls seem to fume base glasses with a yellowish color, so I think it's a matter of how nice the color looks with yellow added as to how the beads will turn out.

Here is a photo of some plain Chalcedony rods, so you can see the before and after color difference:
And another photo of this set, available in my Etsy shop!

CiM Heffalump and Triton

A few days ago, I wanted to make a set of beads using CiM Crocus and Triton glass, like the set in my last post. I sat down at the torch to start making the beads. I grabbed a purple glass rod from my CiM shelf, assuming it was Crocus, and began making the set. The color looked a little strange as I was putting the beads into the kiln, but glass sometimes looks different when it's hot, so I didn't give it much thought. The next morning when I opened the kiln to see my cooled-down beads, I knew these beads couldn't be Crocus! Oh no! What the heck glass color is that?! Ooops! Maybe I used Heffalump!Indeed, I had used Heffalump. Here are the beads next to the Heffalump rods. The beads had turned a very different color from the original Heffalump lavender:It's interesting the way the Triton glass fumed the Heffalump, making the beads a tan/cream/purple color with a pearly surface sheen. I think the beads would look good paired with freshwater pearls:
Another interesting aspect to this set: some of the CiM colors have the property of changing color when viewed in florescent lighting. Heffalump is one of these colors, as well as Crocus and Larkspur. Under florescent lights, these colors get a green tint. Here are my Heffalump beads under florescents:
I'll be putting this fascinating set up in my Etsy shop today.
:-)

Nyx!

I just put these Nyx accent beads into my Etsy shop. I love the color range on this set. Nyx can be unpredictable in the flame, and it also strikes from dark blue to turquoise the longer it soaks in the kiln. I love this glass!

CiM Sangre - A Luscious Pomegranate Red

Mmmm... Pomegranate!It's the end of the fruiting season for the beloved pomegranate tree in our back yard. This is the pomegranate's last clinging fruit, named by my daughter "The Tiniest Pomegranate Ever." It's about the size of a ping-pong ball! While I was sitting outside cleaning beads, she picked it and brought it to me. The skin had burst open, revealing seeds the exact color of the beads I was working on.

The red glass is called "Sangre" from Creation is Messy. It's a beautiful blend of transparent and opaque red, making a visible spiral where it's wound around the core.

I've used Triton for the scroll designs, and I was happy to discover that the Sangre did not get sooty and dark when reduced.

Sangre is a great color, definitely my favorite red for the way it holds its yumma-licious color even when worked hot for a long time, and it doesn't have a bad reaction with silver glass. Its mix of transparent and opaque red gives it a lot of depth and lets light in through the bead.

Silver vs. Gold

I use a lot of Triton glass in my bead designs, which tends to reduce to a gold luster. Lately, some of my customers have been requesting metallic beads in silver because they design their jewelry with silver findings. These requests have led me to work again with Psyche glass, which reduces to a very pretty silver-blue.
These beads are made with Nyx and Psyche. They're in my Etsy shop:I've pressed down with a tool on the Psyche scroll designs to flatten the stringer. I thought it looked more like "hammered silver" that way, especially over the "patinated copper" green of the Nyx glass.

I continue to design in gold Triton, of course, because I love the color of gold. I think there's something special about being able to have a gold-looking bead or piece of jewelry during times when real gold is so expensive. There is something warm and healing about gold, too.

As for myself, I tend to wear silver jewelry, probably like the majority of people. Look for more silver Psyche designs coming soon!

Musings on the Mysteries of Pandora

Fellow lampworker and blogger Sue shared her experience with Pandora in a comment on my last post. Thanks, Sue! Here's her comment:

"They turned out really dark, probably because they were in there for a while. I guess I have to use it last before I start the soak and ramp down. I put it over steel gray trans. and amber trans. and it turned out yuck! So, I guess plain or over opaque, and do them last instead of first...we'll see. Looks like you are the MASTER of pandora!!!!"

(I don't know about the "master of pandora" part! :-D )

I think the transparent amber is reacting with the Pandora to make that yucky color. Is that what you mean by yuck - they turned out dark-yuck? Like you said, try making plain Pandora beads or Pandora over clear, black or white. Something neutral and un-reactive.

When I put each test bead in the kiln, I write down the time so I know how long each bead annealed. The order of striking color goes magenta, purple, blue, green, yellow, opaque red [Edited to add: Double Helix Glassworks says "As it strikes it will go Amber - Ruby - Purple - Green - Blue - Opaque Red"]. If my beads were to turn out dark brick red, they may have spent too long in the kiln. Generally, my beads lighten up the longer they spend in the kiln. A short anneal will give dark purple, and a longer anneal will add in light blue, green and yellow streaks.

Another trick to bringing the color out of Pandora is to really smoosh up the glass. If I'm making a big bead and I have room to twist the glass up a little, I'll do that. How I usually start is I heat a blob of Pandora on the end of the rod, mash it with my mashers, twist it around, then re-heat it into a blob; or, I will heat a blob and then squish it down into a cold brass bead press, then re-introduce it to the heat and make it into a round blob again. When I do either of these things, tiny light-colored spider-webbed lines form on the surface of the blob. I think these spider-webs are the silver grains in the glass activating and getting ready to develop into different colors. After I see a lot of "spider webs" on the glass blob, I will apply it to the mandrel and make the bead. Sometimes I twist the rod as I'm laying the glass down, too.

If a bead is coming out of the kiln so light that it's a pale *poop* color, chances are it never struck properly to begin with. Or maybe it over-struck? I don't know for sure. A bead has to at least get the magenta or purple color first before it will lighten through the blue/green sequence. Why a Pandora bead turns out pale poop-colored is still a mystery to me.

Good luck everyone and I look forward to hearing more of your experiences. Thank you so much for sharing, Sue!

Purple-icious Pandora

I had to try some disk beads with Pandora, of course! These two came out of my kiln yesterday. I'm loving this stunning purple color!This is the purple glass color I've been searching for... it's like a dark EDP without the E or the D!

I've seen this purple in my other Pandora beads, but somehow it looks more deliciously purple-icious in disk form.

I've tried disks with other 104 striking silver glasses, but usually only get a brown disk. Double Helix glasses like Luna, Terranova, Terra and Khaos stay dark brown unless the color is developed with a lot of heat and/or repeated heating. Thin spiral disk beads don't hold up to that kind of heat. Pandora, however, requires no excessive heat so it is the perfect striking glass for disks.

There are several more annealing in my kiln right now!

Re-Striking Pandora in the Kiln

I tried my experiment of re-striking the pale Pandora beads in the kiln (see my previous post). It kind of worked! 'Kind of' because only two out of the three beads got more color.

The beads told me that they would have preferred to be struck properly during the first go-round in the kiln to get the best color, yet they patiently endured a second hot night in the kiln and did their best to make the colors I wanted.

Here are the three pale beads from yesterday:and here they are today:I could have put them in the same order to make it easier to see, but the bead on the left in the first picture is the same bead as the one on the right in the second picture. That's the one that didn't get color. The other two got more blues and purples and very closely match the colorful five beads that struck properly the first night.

Also, when I re-struck the three beads in the second kiln run, I raised the temperature from a 940(F.) garage to a 950 garage and anneal. I let them sit in the kiln for 8 hours at 950. I thought all of them would re-strike, but two out of three ain't bad.

My verdict is that it's better to get the beads to strike right the first time, and if one attempts a re-strike, don't bank on the results. Maybe it's just because these beads are encased. Exposed Pandora probably re-strikes easier. I must say I'm happy with my two out of three though, because it's like taking what would have been an orphan bead and making it into a good bead!

Everyone has a different kiln and kiln environment, so my advice might not be worth a thing to you! Your best bet is to try Pandora and see what works best for you. And, if you end up hating Pandora and you can't get it to do a thing, don't throw it at the wall - sell it to me!!!

Good luck everyone!

Encasing Pandora

I made a slew of encased Pandora beads yesterday. The photo shows all of the beads in the basic order they were made, starting from the beads on the right which were made first and the beads on the left which were made last. The first five beads (on the right) spent 7 hours in the kiln, and the three beads on the left spent 5 hours in the kiln before ramping down. You can see the color difference:Maybe encased, especially heavily encased beads, need to stay in the kiln a little longer than unencased beads. I think if these beads were made unencased, all of the beads would have dark purple and blue color.

In my last post, you can see two encased beads that were annealed for only 4 hours and got great color. Yet the beads on the left (above) annealed for 5 hours and got not much color. What's up with that? I think it's because the beads above have a much heavier encasing than my previous encased Pandora test beads.

I read a post this morning on the Lampwork, Etc. message board written by a beadmaker who got great color on her encased Pandora beads, though she only annealed them for a short time in the kiln. Ugh, I'm so jealous!!! Her kiln temp might be higher than mine, which I've heard is part of the "secret."

I'm taking my three pale Pandora beads and putting them back in the cold kiln right now. I will ramp my kiln up and leave them in there to anneal for another full cycle tonight. Hopefully they will change color, wouldn't that be cool?!

Double Helix Pandora

A new crop of Double Helix odd lot glasses has arrived!
I've had the chance to play with a few of them. One of my favorites so far is not an odd lot glass, it's their new color, Pandora:Here are my first test beads:From left to right, the first two beads are plain spacers. They turned out a nice, vivid but dark purple and blue. The third bead is Pandora swirled over Triton, the fourth bead is Pandora swirled over CiM's Canyon de Chelly, and the fifth and sixth beads are Pandora spacers encased in clear.

With small beads like spacers, I think the color is darker and more limited in spectrum, possibly because there is not much of a cool/hot temperature variance in the small amount of glass to encourage the development of a broad range of color. I think large or sculptural beads will have more variety of color than the dark purple and blue I got in my small beads.

Encasing, however, works great with the small beads. In addition to blue and purple, I also got red, green and yellow. The encasing lightened up the color a little and extended the spectrum.

If you're a lampworker and are wondering about how to use Pandora, I garaged these beads at 940 for 4-6 hours and annealed at 950 for one hour. That is my regular annealing schedule. I formed the beads without any special heating, striking, cooling or reducing. I just shaped them and put them in the kiln as though I were making an Effetre bead.

When the glass goes into the kiln it looks transparent green, maybe with some opaque light green streaks. There is no color on the beads at all other than green. All the color striking happens during the hours it spends in the kiln. When I took my Pandora beads out of the kiln in the morning, I was totally amazed at the color that had bloomed. It was so easy!

Now, back to the torch to make some more Pandora beads!

A Triton Rainbow

I've been practicing different ways of reducing Triton. By alternating the reducing flame with a neutral or slightly reducing flame, I can get different colors. The color also depends on how hot the bead gets during reducing and how long it's in the flames at the different stages. I love the colors on this latest set!

Colorful Psyche Disks

I've just posted these Psyche disks in my Etsy shop. I love the color I got on this set!
I reduced the Psyche in a different way than I usually do. Normally I hold the beads several inches away from the long yellow cones of the reducing flame, spinning them very slowly in and out of the heat. For these, I flashed them rapidly right at the tips of the yellow cones. I think the micro-blasts of reduction they got made the variations of color on the glass.

I first used this technique with M-166, the DH odd-lot that makes a very shiny rose-gold color. I noticed that flashing it close to the flame made the rose, purple, green and blue really come out on the M-166. After trying this technique with Psyche I'm very happy with the results.

The technique doesn't work with all the Double Helix reducing glasses. Some like to be reduced at a farther distance from the flame. I guess it all depends on the look you are going for with your beads. That's the funnest part about beadmaking - playtime and experimenting!

DH Odd: M-166

This test batch is one of my favorites. It's a color I hope Double Helix makes again as part of their regular line. I have been looking for a gold metallic 104 c.o.e. compatible glass for a long time, and this is it! The gold, silver, blue, green and rose colors that can be achieved by a few brief passes through a reducing flame are stunning. Here are a few of my test beads.

M-166 disks:

M-166 stringer on transparent purple and green hollow beads:

Some lampworkers use Kugler Iris Gold to get this gold metallic look. I have used it too, but with disastrous results. The Kugler c.o.e., which is 90 I think, is so far from the Effetre c.o.e. 104 that most of it cracked off my beads. Maybe I'm not aware of other 104 gold glasses that are out there, but this M-166 will be the one I use from now on.

RH-169, RH-193 cont.

This is a follow-up to my last post about the Double Helix odds. I've gotten some great tips from other lampworkers about using these glasses. Here is my latest bead with RH-169:

The base is DSP with a little bit of silver foil, and the RH-169 is spiraled on top. After applying the RH-169 I heated the bead to dripping hot, then cooled, heated again, cooled, etc. for a few rounds.

While I was working it, the bead never appeared to get any color besides the regular olive green. I put it away into the kiln with a little tear in my eye because this glass still wasn't doing anything at all for me!

Soon after that I turned my kiln to the annealing cycle, so this bead was made at the end of the day... I figured less chance of it soaking a long time and kiln striking to coral.

When I opened the kiln this morning, I was completely surprised to see the purple and magenta colors on this bead! They weren't there when I put the bead into the kiln. I have absolutely no idea what happened!

I hope I can repeat whatever it was!

Rainbow Disks on Etsy

These are the rainbow disks that were pictured in my previous post, now all cleaned and in my Etsy shop!

I've been interviewed!

For several months I've been working on an interview with Adobe, and it's finally live! You can view it on their kuler website at http://kuler.adobe.com. Click on the "Spotlight" link on the right side menu bar. You may need the latest version of Flash to view the site.

Adobe's kuler website allows users to create and share color schemes, then download them to Photoshop for use in designing print materials, web sites, etc. I use the site just for fun because I love color!

A few months ago I wrote a blog post here about kuler which caught Adobe's attention and led to the interview: http://beadabundant.blogspot.com/2008/01/kuler-kolor.html

For this interview, I've used a new feature on the kuler website which allows me to upload a photo from my computer and extract several color schemes directly from the colors in the photo. From these color schemes I created bead sets. Here's an example:

Photo of Diamond Head on O'ahu:

The color scheme I extracted from the image:

and the resulting bead set I created, inspired by the photo and the color scheme:

The kuler site is lots of fun to play with, so if you love color stop on by and be inspired!

Luna 2 Beads

I've had a chance to try the new glass from Double Helix, Luna 2! It has taken me a few tries to get the hang of it. Now that I'm finally getting it to strike, I'm loving the rainbow of colors in this glass! Here is a set of beads I have up in my Etsy shop right now:

The base color of these beads is Dark Silver Plum. When I put the Luna over it I really got the colors to pop! Maybe it's just because I've practiced enough with the Luna, or maybe it's the chemical reaction between the Luna and the Silver Plum that did it. Either way I'm happy with the results and I can't wait to play with this glass some more!

New Bead Style!

Here is my latest project - a new bead style! (New for me anyway!)


If you're a lampworker: I made these by creating an encased triangle bead, then heating each end and letting gravity (and a tiny bit of marvering) stretch it down the mandrel. They take an incredibly long time to make. Just coaxing the glass down the mandrel takes me about 35-45 minutes.

These beads are a real skill challenge for me. I usually make small beads that only use one or two colors. I wanted to expand my horizons, so I tried making an encased triangle bead but accidentally stretched it down the mandrel too far. I really liked the look of it though, so I just kept going and voila, a new style!

Okay enough blabbing. Here are some more photos. None of these beads are for sale yet because I can't let let them go!




If you're interested in what clear I used, some of these beads have CiM clear and some have Vetrofond Crystal Clear. With both clears, I got some scumming and some bubbles. The pictures show it up more than you can actually see in "real life." It's hard to find a clear that stands up to very long working times.

I found that the CiM clear was a little stiffer than the Vetro, so ultimately I went with the Vetro because it melts over the base bead more quickly. The whole secret/challenge to these beads is getting the encasing all the way to the end so the colors don't leak out and bloom across the outside surface.

Hope you enjoyed the eye candy!